Skip to main content
MoodRoom

Concealer

Concealer is not lighter foundation. It is a denser, more pigmented product built to cover one spot rather than even out a whole face — and the reason one tube rarely works everywhere is that dark circles and a blemish need opposite things from it.

Salome Bitsadze — Makeup artist and instructor ·

Why one concealer is not enough

Under the eye you need movement. The skin there folds every time you blink, so a product that sets hard will crack along the fold within an hour. It has to stay slightly flexible.

On a blemish you need the opposite: full coverage that sets and stays put, because anything flexible slides off a raised spot as your face moves.

Those are contradictory requirements. One tube can be made to do both, but it will do neither well — which is why most people unhappy with their concealer are using one product for two jobs.

Shade under the eye

The usual advice — go one or two shades lighter — is half right, and it is the reason for the grey, ashy look that photographs badly.

Dark circles are blue or purple in tone. Lighter concealer on top of blue gives you lighter blue, which reads as grey. The tone has to be corrected before it is lightened: a peach or salmon undertone neutralises blue on most Georgian skin tones, and only then does a shade close to your foundation go on top.

A shade lighter is for brightening skin that is already neutral. It is not a fix for circles.

Shade on a blemish

Here the rule reverses: match your foundation exactly, or go a fraction darker. Lighter concealer on a spot creates a pale dot that draws the eye straight to the thing you were covering.

Redness needs correcting rather than covering. A green-toned corrector under a matched concealer takes two thin layers to disappear; a thick layer of skin-toned concealer alone takes four and still shows at the edges.

Why it creases, and what stops it

Creasing is almost always volume, not formula. Too much concealer has nowhere to go when the skin folds, so it collects in the fold.

Three things fix it, in order of impact: use less, press it in with a warm fingertip or a damp sponge instead of dragging it, and set only the area that actually creases with a very small amount of finely milled powder.

Setting the whole under-eye with powder is the most common overcorrection. It dries the area, and dry skin creases sooner.

Order of application

Foundation first, concealer second. Foundation already evens out a good deal, and applying it afterwards wipes off concealer placed first.

Working in this order also means you use noticeably less concealer — often half — because you are only covering what the foundation did not.

Frequently asked questions

Should concealer be lighter than foundation?
Only for brightening neutral skin. For dark circles, correct the blue tone with a peach shade first, then use a concealer close to your foundation. Lighter on blue reads as grey.
Why does my concealer crease under the eye?
Usually too much product. Use less, press it in rather than drag it, and set only the part that actually creases with a small amount of fine powder.
Foundation or concealer first?
Foundation first. It evens out a lot on its own, so you need far less concealer — and applying foundation afterwards would wipe the concealer off.
Can one concealer cover both circles and spots?
It can, but not well. Under the eye it needs to stay flexible; on a blemish it needs to set firmly. Those are opposite requirements.

Related pages